Mexico City is a colossal, beautifully overwhelming metropolis and an absolute paradise for those who live to eat. Across thousands of restaurants, markets, street stalls, bakeries and fondas,food from every corner of the country converges. So deciding where (and what) to eat can feel daunting.
I’ve spent over a decade writing about Mexico’s food scene, along with popping up on TV shows to talk about it occasionally. My favorite way to navigate it all is still right here on the ground with my food tours. Sidestepping the obvious spots and encouraging travelers to go deeper into the food culture here constantly reminds me of the fascinating nature of how we chilangos eat.
To me, that means having the flexibility to move between completely different culinary worlds. We can spend lunchtime standing on a crowded sidewalk, leaning over a taco drenched in salsa and lime juice, then dress up that same evening for a multicourse dinner at a dimly lit restaurant. We’re fiercely loyal to the neighborhood places that have fed us for years and know our names, but we remain insatiably curious about the next opening or dish worth crossing town for.
That same flexibility shapes the city’s food. CDMX knows exactly how to pull tradition into modernity without losing its spirit. These 12 spots offer a taste of the city’s versatility: dishes and bites deeply rooted in history but shaped by the wonderfully chaotic, ever-evolving way we eat today.
Scrambled Eggs at Fonda Margarita
Adolfo Prieto 1364 B, Tlacoquemecatl del Valle, Benito Juárez
+52 55 5559 6358
I remember being dragged out of bed early on a weekend as a teenager to have breakfast here. Although I was still drowsy, the smell of the wood-fired stoves, the café de olla (traditional “pot coffee”) bubbling away, and sounds of the older musicians playing classic tunes on their guitars were enough to bring me around. I was fully awake by the time a plate of refried beans with scrambled eggs and a stack of warm tortillas made it to the table. It’s the kind of humble combination you’d find in almost any Mexican home. At Fonda Margarita, these eggs, which are cooked over a wood fire and enriched with lard, take on a different life. Getting here early is a requirement, as they open around 6:30 a.m. and by 10 a.m., all the food is gone.
Chilaquiles at Chilpa
C. Chilpancingo 35, Colonia Condesa,
+52 55 5264 4976
Few breakfast menus are complete without chilaquiles. What started as a way to use up day-old tortillas is now one of the country’s quintessential breakfasts: triangles of tortillas, deep-fried until crisp, then bathed in salsa. At Chilpa in leafy Condesa, several salsas are available, from a red, tomato-based version to the bright, tangy tomatillo number, all with different spice levels. Pile on your choice of cecina, shredded chicken, or fried eggs. Crema, grated cheese, and chopped onion are standard, making it easy to order a different version every visit.
Chocolate Concha at Panadería Gala
If you asked my Mexican grandma what breakfast looks like, she’d say coffee and a pan dulce—more often than not that would mean a concha.The quintessential Mexican pastry makes an appearance in virtually every bakery in town, from the most traditional versions made with a combination of lard and shortening to the tender butter-forward renditions found in most modern bakeries. At Panadería Gala, a speakeasy-style bakery, the extra-bouncy conchas get an extra layer of indulgence when topped with a white or dark chocolate ganache quenelle.
Margarita at Despacho Margarita
The Margarita may be known worldwide as the quintessential Mexican cocktail. Legend has it that the iconic drink was first conceived in Ensenada, Baja California, and its ties to coast and borderlands are still strong. But chilangos tend to save it for specific occasions and places such as a beach vacation, a favorite cantina, or a particular restaurant where we know they’ll make a killer one. At Despacho Margarita, the classic shaken version gets a new life, alongside spicy and frozen variations. In the slushy machine there are usually two flavors: a classic tequila and lime version and a seasonal mezcal-based one that changes monthly, with unique flavors such as nopal and shiso or raspberry and cayenne pepper.
Banderas at Cantina Covadonga
Puebla 121, Roma Norte
+52 55 5533 2701
Cantinas have long been places to gather over good food and several rounds of drinks. In these laid-back establishments, both are given equal importance. At Covadonga, a cantina without background music, generations mix at the tables, from the young and cool to sixty-somethings who come to play dominoes (available on request).
Banderas have been a popular order here from the beginning: three shot glasses lined up, one with tequila, another with lime juice, and a third with sangrita, a red-hued blend of tomato and fruit juices. Together they mimic the three colors of the Mexican flag (hence the name). They’re not meant to be knocked back but rather sipped slowly, alternating between glasses.
Tlacoyo de Haba at Tlacoyos Medellín
There’s a certain type of stand you’ll see repeatedly throughout the city centered around a large, round comal, usually fired with charcoal, with a bucket of corn masa and, more often than not, two women working side by side. Gorditas, quesadillas, and sopes are all on the menu, but the tlacoyo may be the most emblematic of central Mexico and Mexico City.
Football-shaped and stuffed with your choice of fava bean purée, requesón (a soft cheese similar to ricotta), or refried beans, tlacoyos are typically topped with cactus salad for a tangy contrast, grated queso fresco, and red or green salsa, depending on your preference. They’re the kind of morning or afternoon snack you might grab during errands or before wandering into the adjacent market.
Torta de Pastor con Queso at El Vilsito
Petén 248 y, Avenida Universidad, Narvarte Poniente, Benito Juárez
+52 55 5536 3060
The idea of stacking meat on a rotating spit was brought to Puebla by Lebanese immigrants. Once it reached Mexico City, it evolved into one of the city’s great late-night bites: the taco al pastor. At El Vilsito, a garage by day that moonlights as one of the city’s best taquerías, they take the pastor one step further, turning it into the most Chilango version possible by making it into a torta. A warm, lightly toasted telera gets a smear of refried beans, avocado, onion, tomato, and freshly shaved pastor, all finished with melted cheese.
Fresh Oysters at Taller de Ostiones by FISM
Calle Versalles 113, Casa Versalles, Juárez
+52 55 8568 7397
You can’t talk about Mexico City without talking about its obsession with seafood. It may seem strange for a city far from the coast, but seafood from both of Mexico’s coastlines makes its way here through the second-largest seafood market in the world (surpassed only by Tokyo’s Toyosu) before being distributed across the rest of the country.
At Taller de Ostiones, clams, barnacles, and tuna arrive three times a week by air from Baja California Sur, alongside sustainably farmed oysters. Those bivalves pair perfectly with a house-made sauce that’s rich, briny, deeply umami, and slightly spicy.
Comida Corrida at Nuevo Tehuacán
C. Dinamarca 47, Juárez
+52 55 1313 8562
Mexico City runs on fondas and street food. These casual eateries serve homestyle food that’s quick, affordable, and feels like a warm hug. Stepping inside a fonda means being a part of a daily ritual known as comida corrida, where a meal typically unfolds in four acts: a steaming bowl of soup or broth to start, followed by your choice of rice or pasta. Next comes the main course, which at some places, like Nuevo Tehuacán, is what dictates the price of the meal; meatballs in chipotle, pork with tomatillo and purslane, and chicken in peanut sauce are classics. Everything is washed down with a pitcher of freshly made agua fresca and finished with a sweet treat like a cup of gelatin. Look around, and you’ll see schoolchildren sitting elbow to elbow with office workers all savoring the comfort of one of the city’s most democratic meals.
Flan at Siembra Tortillería
Mostly homemade, flan is a staple of casual Mexican cooking, but it’s one of those desserts that look deceptively simple. Getting the texture just right (silky, firm, not overly sweet) is way harder than it seems, which may be why the best versions are often found in homes. Siembra may be a temple dedicated to heirloom corn masa, tacos, and antojitos, but its flan has all the right qualifications to receive just as much attention.
Nieve de Mamey at Nevería Roxy
Fernando Montes de Oca 89, Cuauhtémoc, Colonia Condesa
+52 55 5286 1258
Ice cream parlors used to be an almost daily afternoon ritual for families and couples alike. Nevería Roxy was one of the early ones, and its 1950s-diner palate of teal and red has barely changed, even in the newer locations. Alongside the classic milk- and cream-based flavors, sundaes, floats, and banana splits, you’ll find nieves.
The word literally translates to “snow,” and the closest comparison might be a sorbet, though the texture tends to be a little coarser and the flavors typically center around seasonal fruits. Mamey, an endemic fruit, may have a short season, but Roxy keeps its nieve de mamey year-round. With a faintly nutty flavor reminiscent of baked sweet potato, it’s become a local favorite. And thanks to mamey’s lush, natural creaminess, it’s easy to forget there’s no dairy in the cup.
Candied Lime Peels With Shredded Coconut at Dulcería de Celaya
Avenida 5 de Mayo 39, Centro Histórico de la Ciudad
+52 55 5521 1787
Stepping into Dulcería de Celaya feels more like entering a 19th-century jewelry store than a candy shop. Founded in 1874, this Centro Histórico institution still retains its original art nouveau interior, complete with French mirrors, tiled floors, and hand-carved oak cabinets, all filled with traditional sweets made in-house. Among the colorful sweet treats are candied lime skins stuffed with shredded sweetened coconut. The peel is candied and tender and, unlike fresh lime rind, is not bitter, so you can go ahead and bite into the whole thing at once.
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Source: www.saveur.com
